When I was pregnant, I had this big problem with finding maternity pants that 1. don’t look too “maternity” and 2. don’t break the bank.
So, after figuring out that only pants that cost upwards of $150 would look good on me, I decided to try and draft my own. I started out with drafting a pair of pants according to my hip measurement.
If you do not know how to draft pants, then just get a trouser non-maternity pattern according to your hip measurement (the waist measurement really doesn’t matter).
Make the muslin leaving the top 3” from the side seams unsown and sewing only about 3.5” from the front crotch.
Next, you have to establish where the upper (I will call it waistline for lack of other word) line would be. Simply draw on the muslin a line that is just under the lowest part of your pregnant tummy and follow to the back aiming at hitting the waist at the CB. A fitting buddy or even a willing husband/bf would be helpful. Transfer the markings to the pattern.
Then you have to figure the extended panel. I used a tank top (with similar stretch qualities as the jersey I had), pulled it over the waistline and chalk marked on the tank top the shape I would need (not so much the shape at the waistline because that was easy to draft but actually the length of the panel in CB and CF and the width).
The maternity panel is simply sewn with one side seam, then the top is folded under 2” and zigzagged, elastic is inserted and the panel is attached to the pants. The elastic I used is 1.5” wide.
Here is a close-up of the extended panel attached:
Note on fabric:
- Main fabric: You want to get a fabric that has some stretch to it. Although you don’t necessarily have to do, it would be more comfortable, especially of the fit in the thighs is more body conscious. I used stretch corduroy but would advice on using a material that has more drape, it would render a more elegant look.
- As far as the fabric for the extended panel, use fabric with 4-way stretch and one that is nice on touch because it would be rubbing against your already stretched out skin on the tummy.