First, I want to thank everybody for your responses on my previous post. I have not decided what my spring-summer sewing plan would be; but there definitely would be a jumpsuit/pantsuit thrown in the mix, and I might do the Proenza Schouler top. As all of you, I love the Gianbatista Valli top, but don't know if I'd be able to drape it myself. I know Marita would be able to do it, she did so wonderfully with the Rick Owens one! Interestingly, economic crisis or not, the Mike and Chris Jumpsuit I posted a picture of sold everywhere immediately upon becoming available, prices at $280-290, mind you! Glad I can sew, is all I can say!
Anyway, here is what I have been working these days:
The story behind this project:On a day-to-day basis I wear mostly pants or jeans. I buy all my jeans and sew 90% of my pants. This project is for a pair of slim high-waisted pants.
Inspiration:
This time I did not have a specific inspiration piece to copy. I had the general idea in my head and some designer pieces, such as the ones below, helped solidify it:
Fabric:
EOS Dana Buckman viscose bottom-weight 4-way stretch fabric. I bought it in the end of September for $19/yd and it was a deal, for me at least, because it is extremely high quality. I have seen pants and leggings made of similar fabric starting at over $200. This fabric is currently sold out, however, if EOS gets it back in stock, I highly recommend it!
Pattern:To the left is my sketch, I know it is primitive, my drawing skills aren't great!
I started off with a developed some time ago pant sloper and the facing pieces from Vogue 8425 (a high-waisted skirt I made). The pant leg was modified according to the knee and ankle circumference I was going for. Everything above the lower waist line was drafted using the Vogue pattern pieces as a guide.
Ultimately, I arrived at the final pattern, and luckily it only took me two muslins:
FYI: Burda WOF 8/2008 - 116 is a similar slim pant with corsetted waist.
Construction details:
Invisible zipper in the CB
Front crease line is edge stitched
Front dart was converged in the front crease line
Back darts are top-stitched
Waist facing is interfaced
Waist facing is boned at side seams, front crease lines, and back darts
Waist facing is anchored ( I used stitching in the respective seams) to the pant at side seams, back darts, CF and front crease line
Waist facing was sewn to the invisible zipper using Fasanella’s method.
I have not decided whether to put belt carriers or not. I am afraid that is I do, it would limit the width of belts I can use, so I'll see if belts stay put without carriers first.
I am planning on sewing another (completely different) pair of tailored pants, but before I start on them, I thought I should tackle a more immediate-satisfaction kind of project. So, inspired by the idea behind the Gwenevere Jeans by 7 For All Mankind, I refashion a pair of skinny jeans.
The
refashioned jeans are Goldsign Frontier jeans (skinny jeans with 12” hem circumference), and I inserted a 7” brass jeans zipper in Navy at the bottom of the outseam. Although the zipper doesn’t serve any utilitarian function, it is completely functional. In the process I had to decrease the hem circumference from 12” to 10” and in order to do so the pant leg was tapered from about mid-calf to the hem.
Here is a side view. Apparently, my little one was in the spirit of full disclosure, and felt you should see me rear part as well.
Details of construction:
Although I had some doubts in the beginning, I really like the end-result, it has some 80’ flair and the brass zipper adds interest to an otherwise basic pair of skinnies.