Monday, January 26, 2009

Argyle Blouse: Burda WOF 2004-02-120



Inspiration:
This McQ by Alexander McQueen Top:
What I like about McQueen’s design is the casual sophistication and effortlessness that the top exudes.

Pattern:
Burda WOF 2004-02-120, s.38. The pattern is actually for a dress/tunic, I took only the top (blouse) part of the pattern and worked with it.
Pattern Alterations for fit:
Shortened the bodice above the armhole with 0.5”.
On raglan sleeves drafted by Burda WOF I usually have to adjust the shoulder curve to soften it. This, however, was not necessary here.

Pattern Modifications:
The sleeve was overhauled. First, I made it a 1-piece sleeve by putting the front and back parts of the sleeve together and, thus, creating a shoulder dart. Second, I tapered the sleeve towards the hem and adjusted the underarm length to what was needed for the design. Third, I added the pleats, the slit, the placket, and the cuff.
Shirt hem: I added a 0.5” waistband (bias-cut) in which I inserted elastic.
Front slit: lengthened to 7”.
Neckline and slit are bias bound.
3 buttons and button loops were added to the bottom edge of the slit.

Fabric:
Italian argyle print cotton shirting from EOS.
This fabric is one of those you have to see in person to truly appreciate. I love the color combination and the argyle/plaid pattern.

Construction details:
Although it was not in the initial plan, the blouse ended up being underlined with Ambience. The underlining was cut on bias. I think it improves the hang, and I like how it feels against the skin.
Again, D. Coffin’s “Shirtmaking” was invaluable.
Here are some close-up photos of the shirt:

Conclusion:
A pattern with a lovely cut, and isn’t it nice that you can find a current-looking pattern in a 5-yr old magazine!