Tuesday, December 16, 2008

High Waisted Skirt - V8425, View A

I apologize for the see-thru cami... but don't have another picture at this time!

Pattern: V8425

Rebecca Taylor Pencil skirt retailing at Nordstrom for $250.

My size according to pattern envelop is between 8 and 10 for hips and 12 for waist.
After consulting measuring the pattern I decided on cutting size 4 in the hips blending into size 6 at the waist. The WB is cut in size 6. Also, I did some reshaping at the side seams due to me not having much of a hip curve and ended up downsizing the pattern at the hips with a whole size.
In conclusion on sizing, this pattern runs big. My advice: do not go by the size as on the pattern envelope, rather decide on which size to trace after consulting the finished garment hips and waist measurement (indicated on the pattern) and cut your muslin with 1” seam allowances at the vertical seams.
Also, a conclusion I arrived at: when making muslins for particularly fitted garments I find it more accurate to work with some cheat heavier weight cotton, instead of muslin. What I have observed on both pants and skirts is that in these instances muslin stretches and gives a wrong idea of fit, at least with me.

Other alterations:
I performed a petite alteration by shortening the pattern with 1.75” at the shortening line.
Drafted lining pieces:
Redrafted the CB seam to allow for the pleat
Eliminated the front and back vertical seams and converted then into waist darts.

Design Changes:
I tapered significantly at the hem (app. 4”), blending to nothing at the hips.

Japanese Woven fabric – “Roam If You Want To” - from http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/.
The fabric has no stretch in either direction. Ideally, for this pattern it should have some crosswise stretch.

I followed Laura’s advice and used boning in the waistband. The facing of the waistband in underlined with black cotton pocketing and the underlining is interfaced with fusible woven interfacing.
The skirt is lined and the lining is anchored to the shell at the back pleat and to the side seams.
The front and back vertical seams, as well as the waistband horizontal seams are pick stitched by hand (somewhat of a surprisingly calming activity, actually) with black buttonhole twist.

My gripes about this pattern:
Sizing: I truly believe the Big 4 should work on sizing their patterns better so that they a/correspond to the respective body measurements and b/reflect the intended style.
The pattern does not include lining. IMO, this style DEFINITELY needs lining. While lining a skirt is no rocket science, the back pleat makes it a bit more difficult and separate pattern pieces for the back lining as well as some directions would have been very helpful.
While boning is not a must in this case (although, if you are less that a six-pack person, it is kind of a necessity…), I still think that the pattern should at least have included a suggestion to bone the waistband.
It just seams to me that Vogue took the easy road with writing the instructions for this pattern. They are not bad by a long stretch, just not good enough.

Pattern re-use idea:
Completely by accident I came across this dress by Rebecca Taylor, again. It is called “Faux Two Piece Dress.” While I am not a ruffle-person, I love the visual of separates and the fact that it is a dress. Also, how fabulous is the back exposed zipper?