Friday, September 26, 2008

Draped Scarf/Hood

I am not sure why this style is called “snood,” but it is…
My version is derived from a Michael Kors style that was made from ribbed sweater knit.
The purpose of a snood, in my understanding, is to be used both as a collar/scarf and as a hood/hat. I have a HUGE head (although you may notice it by just looking at me) and hats VERY rarely fit me, therefore, the idea of alternative head-covering methods appeals to me. I remember my grandmother knitted a snood for me in the mid-80s but then back where I grew up it was referred to with the less sophisticated “sock-hat!”

Initially, I thought of knitting the snood, but then I fond these cool and soft knits at Textile-o-philes (a local independent fabric store with delicious variety of fabrics) and decided to use them instead, for now at least.
The pattern is a basic rectangle that is sewn into a tube and then folded in half, the same way you would construct a turtleneck. My version is less structured than the original M. Kors snood, however, it drapes beautifully. I may attempt knitting an exact version of the original, or better yet, bribe my MIL to knit one for me!

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Slouchy Plaid Pants

Pattern: Vogue 2981, View B

For these pants I had no particular inspiration other than lusting over plaid pants and pants with a menswear slouchy flair to them for two years.

My size according to pattern envelop is between 8 and 10 for hips and 12 for waist. I cut size 10 throughout. My overall fit-size conclusion: as opposed to other Alice & Olivia pants, I did not find this one running big. I suggest you go with your true hip and waist size, leave bigger SAs at the CB, and adjust as you muslin the pattern. Due to the shape of the WB, I find that it is almost necessary to make a muslin, if only with very short legs – to check for the overall hip and waist fit.

Alterations for fit:
Took about a total of 1.5” away from the side seams at the waist and blended at the hips
Shortened the pattern with 0.5” at the shortening line just above the hipline
Straightened the hip curve to an almost straight line (I do that with all patterns)
Lowered the back at the CB with 3/8” and blended at the back waist notch
Made a 0.5” deep back dart
Took 0.5” from the WB at the sides
Moved very slightly the front pleat towards the side seam
Had to take more from the CB seam (the pant part) to match the shape of my body (this is inevitable with any pattern though).
These might seem like a lot of alterations but it was really tweaking to achieve a better fit. The front and back crotch I found to be drafted nicely.

Design Changes:
Front pockets changed to iseam pockets.

Subtle plaid on gray background. As far as content, there is more polyester in the fabric than I would have liked but I was not sure how I would like neither the style, nor wearing plaid for bottoms, hence, decided to go with a minimal investment.

Pant legs are lined to just below the knee.
I changed the front pockets from slant to inseam, seemed like it went better with the plaid fabric.
I have my own way of making front fly zippers (reversely engineered from some high-end RTW pants) that I always used instead of the pattern instruction. When making these pants I took photos of each step of making the closure, so hopefully some time soon will post the tutorial, if anyone is interested.

I also changed slightly the belt loop design. I stitched each belt loop 1” from the top edge to allow for inserting a skinny belt. This is actually a very minor design change but for me it made a lot of difference.