Friday, August 29, 2008

Marni - Inspired Sweater Coat

This particular sweatercoat is one of the two in my winter sewing plan and is inspired by the lines of a Marni coat. I love sweater coats and they are very appropriate for the weather here in CO, do not wrinkle and are unassuming. This is the link via which you can check the original coat:
Unfortunately, the original Marni coat is black and the otherwise lovely site is not one with great photos. Anyway, I hope you can at least see the general siluette of the garment.
My design is a bit of a departure from the original - the sleeves of my coat are shorter and wider and I made a short funnel neck similar to a coat by MARC BY MARC JACOBS:

I also feel that my coat hits slightly lower than the original (lengthwise).

I drafted the pattern myself and was fortunate enough to need only one muslin. It is really an extremely basic pattern, the only two things you need to figure out are the width at the bust and width of the sleeves.

A lovely colored sweaterknit which unfortunately is probably 100% polyester. I wear color a lot, prints not so much, therefore the ombre-ish effect of this fabric appealed to me as a lovely compromise. I actually bought a year ago it from Joann of all places (I avoid buying fabric from there, unless it is in the clearance section and usable for muslins) with no idea what I was going to make from it.

The entire coat (short of the facings) is underlined with lycra jersey knit. The front edges are cut on the selvage and are left unfinished. The sleeve hems, hemband and facings are bound with soft lightweight jersey. The closure consists of antique gold mega snaps.

The belt is my own Fullum belt that I labsolutely love, mainlt due to the unorthodox closure!

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Quarter Sleeve Layering Blouson - Burda WOF 09-2007-120Review

This top by VPL:

And this is me, sorry for the frown!

This is a raglan top, very low-cut front neckline and cowlneck-like collar. The sleeves are 7/8, the hem is cinched at the hips.

I could have cut this pattern in either size 36 or 38, but decided to go with the oversized (I think – modern) look and cut s.38. Here is the thing, my bust measurement is 34. The blouson measures 40.5” under the sleeves in size 38. My advise would be: If your fabric is fluid (as it should be for this top), go a size or two up. I actually wish I had gone 2 sizes up, to s.40.
Side note on Sizing:
IMO, if I go two sizes down in the bodice (not the sleeves) and lengthen the top to a dress knee-length, it would make a wonderful dress to be worn with a wide decorative belt.
1. Fit-wise:
Well, short of shortening the bodice 1”, none.
2. Design-wise:
I made the waistband 1.25” wide instead of 1” – a totally not major change. A more major change was omitting the waistband and extending the front and back pattern pieces with the length necessary to make a casing for 1” elastic. I did this because IMO it renders a RTW (as opposed to home-sewn) touch to the garment. Also, I omitted the front inset. I am going to use the top as a layering piece, thus, I thought the inset was redundant.
3. Construction-wise:
The magazine suggests you cut the collar as two pieces that connect at the fold of the collar. I think this is completely illogical; I cut it as one omitting a seam exactly where I wanted excellent drape.
Unless you aim at looking huge, you should choose a really fluid fabric. I went with a lightweight rayon fabric from As of right now I have used every square inch of it and my only wish is to have bought more – such a great fabric and so pleasant to sew with and wear.