Monday, January 5, 2009

High Waisted Pants and Jeans Refashioning

First, I want to thank everybody for your responses on my previous post. I have not decided what my spring-summer sewing plan would be; but there definitely would be a jumpsuit/pantsuit thrown in the mix, and I might do the Proenza Schouler top. As all of you, I love the Gianbatista Valli top, but don't know if I'd be able to drape it myself. I know Marita would be able to do it, she did so wonderfully with the Rick Owens one! Interestingly, economic crisis or not, the Mike and Chris Jumpsuit I posted a picture of sold everywhere immediately upon becoming available, prices at $280-290, mind you! Glad I can sew, is all I can say!
Anyway, here is what I have been working these days:
The story behind this project:

On a day-to-day basis I wear mostly pants or jeans. I buy all my jeans and sew 90% of my pants. This project is for a pair of slim high-waisted pants.

This time I did not have a specific inspiration piece to copy. I had the general idea in my head and some designer pieces, such as the ones below, helped solidify it:

EOS Dana Buckman viscose bottom-weight 4-way stretch fabric. I bought it in the end of September for $19/yd and it was a deal, for me at least, because it is extremely high quality. I have seen pants and leggings made of similar fabric starting at over $200. This fabric is currently sold out, however, if EOS gets it back in stock, I highly recommend it!

To the left is my sketch, I know it is primitive, my drawing skills aren't great!

I started off with a developed some time ago pant sloper and the facing pieces from Vogue 8425 (a high-waisted skirt I made). The pant leg was modified according to the knee and ankle circumference I was going for. Everything above the lower waist line was drafted using the Vogue pattern pieces as a guide.
Ultimately, I arrived at the final pattern, and luckily it only took me two muslins:
FYI: Burda WOF 8/2008 - 116 is a similar slim pant with corsetted waist.

Construction details:

Invisible zipper in the CB
Front crease line is edge stitched
Front dart was converged in the front crease line
Back darts are top-stitched
Waist facing is interfaced
Waist facing is boned at side seams, front crease lines, and back darts
Waist facing is anchored ( I used stitching in the respective seams) to the pant at side seams, back darts, CF and front crease line
Waist facing was sewn to the invisible zipper using Fasanella’s method.

I have not decided whether to put belt carriers or not. I am afraid that is I do, it would limit the width of belts I can use, so I'll see if belts stay put without carriers first.

I am planning on sewing another (completely different) pair of tailored pants, but before I start on them, I thought I should tackle a more immediate-satisfaction kind of project. So, inspired by the idea behind the Gwenevere Jeans by 7 For All Mankind, I refashion a pair of skinny jeans.

The refashioned jeans are Goldsign Frontier jeans (skinny jeans with 12” hem circumference), and I inserted a 7” brass jeans zipper in Navy at the bottom of the outseam. Although the zipper doesn’t serve any utilitarian function, it is completely functional. In the process I had to decrease the hem circumference from 12” to 10” and in order to do so the pant leg was tapered from about mid-calf to the hem.

Add ImageHere is a side view. Apparently, my little one was in the spirit of full disclosure, and felt you should see me rear part as well.
Details of construction:
Although I had some doubts in the beginning, I really like the end-result, it has some 80’ flair and the brass zipper adds interest to an otherwise basic pair of skinnies.


Sew Passionista said...

Very nice pieces and lucky you to be able to carry it off.

Myra said...

Really cool pants/jeans. You can wear them, you are so slim. I love those high waisted black ones! The little one is so cute, that's something one of mine would do.

Maja said...

I love the black skinny pants! You wear them well.
I own a pair a jeans similar to the ones you made, except that they have a seam at the back of the pant leg and the zipper is inserted in that seam.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Great pants, both of them!

Tany said...

I love both of your pants! The BWOF model you mentioned is in my list (I'm not sure if I'll have the time for making it though) and metal zippers and the 80s in general are a strong trend for spring, so your refashioned jeans are a hit!

Cafe Couture said...

Lovely, pants are sexy and you have such a tiny figure!