Thursday, August 28, 2008

Quarter Sleeve Layering Blouson - Burda WOF 09-2007-120Review

This top by VPL:

And this is me, sorry for the frown!

This is a raglan top, very low-cut front neckline and cowlneck-like collar. The sleeves are 7/8, the hem is cinched at the hips.

I could have cut this pattern in either size 36 or 38, but decided to go with the oversized (I think – modern) look and cut s.38. Here is the thing, my bust measurement is 34. The blouson measures 40.5” under the sleeves in size 38. My advise would be: If your fabric is fluid (as it should be for this top), go a size or two up. I actually wish I had gone 2 sizes up, to s.40.
Side note on Sizing:
IMO, if I go two sizes down in the bodice (not the sleeves) and lengthen the top to a dress knee-length, it would make a wonderful dress to be worn with a wide decorative belt.
1. Fit-wise:
Well, short of shortening the bodice 1”, none.
2. Design-wise:
I made the waistband 1.25” wide instead of 1” – a totally not major change. A more major change was omitting the waistband and extending the front and back pattern pieces with the length necessary to make a casing for 1” elastic. I did this because IMO it renders a RTW (as opposed to home-sewn) touch to the garment. Also, I omitted the front inset. I am going to use the top as a layering piece, thus, I thought the inset was redundant.
3. Construction-wise:
The magazine suggests you cut the collar as two pieces that connect at the fold of the collar. I think this is completely illogical; I cut it as one omitting a seam exactly where I wanted excellent drape.
Unless you aim at looking huge, you should choose a really fluid fabric. I went with a lightweight rayon fabric from As of right now I have used every square inch of it and my only wish is to have bought more – such a great fabric and so pleasant to sew with and wear.

1 comment:

Tany said...

Your top turned out fantastic! I love this style for oversized tops and the cowlneck-like collar!!