Monday, August 11, 2008

Draped Asymmetrical Top Inspired Obakki and the Slapdash Sewist

Inspiration:
I saw this top in the latest issue of Lucky and looked it up online (www.Obakki.com). I liked the casual cool about it and the asymmetrical, yet sophisticated drape.
Drafting:
I started by drawing down the shape of one of my favorite tank tops that are not tight but skim the body instead. Then I added the drape and cut my 1st muslin. This muslin proved a need for a cowlneck adjustment and I cut the 2nd muslin. I used the 2nd muslin to establish the bottom hem and the precise lines of the right armhole. The 3rd and final muslin (on the photo) had all things figured out plus the bias established, but something was still missing… It was just like my inspiration but I did not like it because it was too geometrical and did not gel with my personality, if that makes sense. It was then when I remembered a cool detail that the Slapdash Sewist had added to a dress of hers (see here: http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com/2008/07/goddess-dress.html), i.e. a twisted shoulder detail. So, I added some length to the right shoulder seam and twisted. I liked it and went with it.
There was the question about finishing the neckline and the armholes. I wanted something as clean and unobtrusive as possible, so I went with facing. The thing about this particular facing is that it is cut with the garment, as one pattern piece. Essentially there are only 2 pattern pieces to this top – a back and a front with the back and front facings incorporated in them. The draped left “armhole” is where the facing extends from the front/back. It worked because a/the top is cut on a bias and b/because the fabric is oh so soft and between light- and tissue weight.


Actual garment:
Fabric: Lightweight rayon jersey in black from www.gorgeousfabrics.com.
No interfacing and/or stabilizing, however, the facing is understitched to the seam it faces.
The draped left “armhole” is not pressed at the crease, rather, left soft.
The garment was left to hang overnight (but did not stretch) and only then the bottom hem was finished with a 1 ¾” narrow coverstitch.
The bottom edge of the facing is left unfinished, just pinked.
Finishing touches:
I wanted to add a waist-cinching option, just in case I wanted to wear it that way. It did take me some time to decide on how to do the belt since I only knew I wanted to mix up the knit fabric with some different texture. I ended up weaving the fabric with organza ribbon, tying knots and adding some plastic beads. When wrapped around the waist the top has more of a dressed up-eveningwear look.
For a more everyday look I took some large very dark irregularly shaped beads and made a choker (first time beading and it was fun).



7 comments:

Erica B. said...

I love your top. I'm in love with any and everything drapey. How ironic! I've been beading too. It's so addictive. I plan to post about it this week. I've made around 4 necklaces.

Marita said...

WOW!!!! it's fantastic!:-) I love your projects and you have such great skills.

Adrienne said...

How gorgeous!! I love beading too!!

Christina said...

This top is just so cool, I really admire your ability to see something unique and recreate it. And how awesome is it that now you are making jewelry to coordinate with your garments as well?

Tany said...

It looks FAB!!! You did a fantastic job and your top turned out even better than your inspiration! I love the twisted shoulder detail!

Little Hunting Creek said...

Your top is cooler than the inspiration top. Next thing you know, they will be copying YOU.

Cafe Couture said...

you look so good in your top! your sewing rather original, I like the looks you create, I think I will come and check that out often now :))