Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Balmain SS'09 Inspired Blazer

I am in love with the shoulders on the jackets below. The first two are by Balmain, I am not sure about the third. In any case, I see the third as quite wearable for me, and am thinking on perhaps trying to make it. It is going to be the biggest drafting challenge I have eber undertaken.

net-a-porter.com


Here is my analysis of the last jacket:
  • single breasted
  • peak lapel
  • 2 hip pockets
  • narrow sleeve (may be a 2-piece one)
  • high armhole
  • fitted bodice: princess seam or 2 darts

Preliminary sketches for the purpose of the armhole and sleeve:

I'd very much appreciate input and ideas about how to make it, as well as suggestions on a pattern I could start from for the bodice.

13 comments:

Maja said...

I love this jacket! The one on the third photo is gorgeous. I found this link a while ago on Balmain shoulder pads which you might find helpful.
http://www.elle.com/Fashion/Fashion-Spotlight/Fashion-tip-from-Malina-Joseph-Re-create-runway-looks-on-ELLE.com
As for the pattern, my best guess would be Patrones; I'll check my collection to see if I can find something similar.

susan said...

I agree with Maja that so much of this will be in the shoulder construction especially the pads. It strikes me as Claude Montana's fitted jackets crossed with the new romantic look of the 80's.

It is a rare body that could wear this and with your slender arms and fineness through the bust to to the waist, you are just that body.It is a brave and dramatic choice and even those of us who resemble the cushion and not the pins will be excited to see this come together. Good luck! Susan (Canberra, Australia)

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Cool challenge! I'll be checking in to see how it goes.

Leslie said...

Wow, I am so excited to see you do this! You've got the skills and the body, good luck!

Nancy K said...

The sleeves have to be 2 piece at least to get the shaping necessary for such a narrow, high sleeve. The front might have a dart that ends in the pocket opening. This is an Armani draft often and it pulls the side in nicely. I was wondering how the shoulders are made too.

Lindsay T said...

Well if anyone can pull this drafting feat off, you can. I love this style and think you will rock it. Good luck! Please share the process with us.

violet said...

My third favourite book in the world - Winifred Aldrich's "Metric Pattern Cutting" firstly gives instructions for changing a semi-fitted sleeve to a very close fitted sleeve and then on changing it to a "normal height" padded shoulder and raising the bodice armhole scye. It also has instructions for drafting a raised seam head which will give you the principles for different unexaggerated shapes. I figure you'll have to start building up your shoulder pad shape first though. Good luck - I'm sure it'll be amazing!

JoanneM said...

It is going to be lovely. And you will be able to wear it! Oh my, those sleeves sure do look skinny!

KayY said...

Re the sleeve cap, what you interpret as darts in the sleeve cap, I interpret as the armscye of the jacket body extending out and over the exaggerated shoulder pad. If you are right that it's in the sleeve cap then the curve at the upper edge is still too extreme. Try it in fabric and you will figure it out.

Jonnie664 said...

You're the perfect candidate for this style of jacket/shoulder design! Check out this amazing site that has posted the book "1942 Modern Pattern Design". The sleeve chapter in particular should help you but all the chapters and links are invaluable. Maybe a combination of the 'Leg-of-Mutton' sleeve, and the 'Circular Cut Novelty Sleeve'. Doesn't the Circular Cut Novelty Sleeve looks pretty darn close?! Can't WAIT to see your progress! Here's the link: http://www.vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-04.html

Tany said...

I love it too! And I think the third one will work quite well on your body frame! This will be very challenging but I'm sure that if someone can do it, you will!

TheLuxuriousVagabond said...

You can't believe how excited I was to see that you're trying to reconstruct this style of jacket. I loved it upon seeing it a number of months ago, so I'll definitely be checking back to see how your progress goes!

Taylor said...

figured this out? i'm curious as how to sew this as well!