Friday, April 3, 2009

Pleated Cuffed Pants

In the pictures the pant is worn with my favorite Raybans, a racerback tank made by me, an Alice and Olivia Vest and Max De Carlo pumps (a great deal from Marshall's).
Generally, I do not like pants with pleated fronts and never thought I would make one! When the first pleated front pants started sneaking up on me from the web and the magazines, I ignored them with slight detest. That is, untill I saw this Helmut Lang's number on the left.

Later, when I was determining the details, I looked at many RTW pieces.

Burda WOF 2008-02-121, s. 36
This pattern was part of my “Rediscovering Burda WOF 2008” project and I am glad I found it.

Pattern Alterations for fit:
Surprisingly, none whatsoever…
If I was going for a more fitted look, then I would have taken 1.5” from the CB.

Design Driven Pattern Modifications:
Tapered the pant leg to where the hem circ. was 14.75”.
Decreased the inseam to 25.5” and added 4” for cuffs.
Decreased the waistband width to 1.75”.
Added an actual front fly.
Extended the front pocket to the CF.

Lightweight black wool from Textile-o-philes (a local fabric store).

Construction details:
The front pleats are sewn in 2”. This eliminates bulk right below the waistline.
Key elements are topstitched by hand.

Cuffs: loosely pressed for an undone chic:

About the pattern: A very well drafted one!
As for everything else, I like the pants and the style. Will make it from a charcoal silk shortly, much like DVF made her Allen pant from silk charmeuse.


Tanya said...

Awesome pants, I thought they were RTW until I read your post. I love the outfit, very well put together, very chic.

Lori said...

Great looking pants, wonderful outfit.

Marita said...

Beautiful craftmanship, they look good on you:-)

Shannon said...

Great looking pants - they really suit you!

Rachel said...

Those are gorgeous!!! How do you decrease an inseam? That is something I have been wanting to know how to do? Is it the same as lowering the rise?

loopylulu said...

These look fabulous on you.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I never would have considered such pants but they look great on you! I love the 7/8 length, too. Very chic on your tall frame.

Linda said...

Great looking pants!

Sew Passionista said...

Love the topstitching details. Great pants.

MsKirko said...

Wow! These look great! Good work!

Lindsay T said...

Fabulous pants. I haven't sewn a pair of pants in years but I have plans to make a pair in white denim soon...

Tany said...

The pants look wonderful, they suit you so well! I will take note of this pattern; I love your verson much better than the magazine's!

Cafe Couture said...

This outfit you wear is so smart! I'm charmed.

Charms said...

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I don't want any pleated pants, as I look much thinner wearing one. Maybe this one depends on the body type of the one wearing to make it fabulously fitted.