Tuesday, December 16, 2008

High Waisted Skirt - V8425, View A

I apologize for the see-thru cami... but don't have another picture at this time!

Pattern: V8425

Rebecca Taylor Pencil skirt retailing at Nordstrom for $250.

My size according to pattern envelop is between 8 and 10 for hips and 12 for waist.
After consulting measuring the pattern I decided on cutting size 4 in the hips blending into size 6 at the waist. The WB is cut in size 6. Also, I did some reshaping at the side seams due to me not having much of a hip curve and ended up downsizing the pattern at the hips with a whole size.
In conclusion on sizing, this pattern runs big. My advice: do not go by the size as on the pattern envelope, rather decide on which size to trace after consulting the finished garment hips and waist measurement (indicated on the pattern) and cut your muslin with 1” seam allowances at the vertical seams.
Also, a conclusion I arrived at: when making muslins for particularly fitted garments I find it more accurate to work with some cheat heavier weight cotton, instead of muslin. What I have observed on both pants and skirts is that in these instances muslin stretches and gives a wrong idea of fit, at least with me.

Other alterations:
I performed a petite alteration by shortening the pattern with 1.75” at the shortening line.
Drafted lining pieces:
Redrafted the CB seam to allow for the pleat
Eliminated the front and back vertical seams and converted then into waist darts.

Design Changes:
I tapered significantly at the hem (app. 4”), blending to nothing at the hips.

Japanese Woven fabric – “Roam If You Want To” - from http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/.
The fabric has no stretch in either direction. Ideally, for this pattern it should have some crosswise stretch.

I followed Laura’s advice and used boning in the waistband. The facing of the waistband in underlined with black cotton pocketing and the underlining is interfaced with fusible woven interfacing.
The skirt is lined and the lining is anchored to the shell at the back pleat and to the side seams.
The front and back vertical seams, as well as the waistband horizontal seams are pick stitched by hand (somewhat of a surprisingly calming activity, actually) with black buttonhole twist.

My gripes about this pattern:
Sizing: I truly believe the Big 4 should work on sizing their patterns better so that they a/correspond to the respective body measurements and b/reflect the intended style.
The pattern does not include lining. IMO, this style DEFINITELY needs lining. While lining a skirt is no rocket science, the back pleat makes it a bit more difficult and separate pattern pieces for the back lining as well as some directions would have been very helpful.
While boning is not a must in this case (although, if you are less that a six-pack person, it is kind of a necessity…), I still think that the pattern should at least have included a suggestion to bone the waistband.
It just seams to me that Vogue took the easy road with writing the instructions for this pattern. They are not bad by a long stretch, just not good enough.

Pattern re-use idea:
Completely by accident I came across this dress by Rebecca Taylor, again. It is called “Faux Two Piece Dress.” While I am not a ruffle-person, I love the visual of separates and the fact that it is a dress. Also, how fabulous is the back exposed zipper?


Christina said...

Very classy skirt! I've been longing for one of these high-waisted garments. I like that you added the boning, it seems like it could only help in keeping the waist curvy.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Dang, I already have a long list of Vogue patterns I want and they haven't been on sale in ages. And now you're making me want another one! Love the wide waistband on this, and all your hints are helpful.

cidell said...

Oooooh. I love this skirt! I'm also a fan on boning at the waist. I haven't tried it yet, but it looks so smooth and tailored on you!

Lindsay T said...

Speaking of exposed zippers, go take a look at these fabulous zippers AllisonC just posted on her blog: http://allisoncsewinggallery.blogspot.

Great skirt.

Leslie said...

What a beautiful version of this! I too made this up with boning, I agree it's almost a necessity with the height of the waist panel. Your hand prickstitching is just gorgeous, really adds to the look. Btw, I finally finished up the Vogue pants you helped me with, thank you so much!

Melissa Fehr Trade said...

Lovely! I'm nearly done with a pair of high waisted trousers, and I, too, always, always put boning into anything high waisted...

Sew Passionista said...

Your skirt is lovely and I love the pick stitch detail. Thank you for the appraisal of the pattern. I agree with you 100% about the missing lining pieces and the lack of boning requirement.
I made a similar skirt last spring minus the boning and may have to go back in there and put some in. What I like about this style is that it smooths out my muffin top and as I can no longer tuck anything in ( I'm 60 and have lost my waist somewhere ), I think it 's a good style choice for my age group.
I love your blog.

shorty said...

That skirt looks great! I am impressed that you hand picked the details, looks very very good! I am so not to that point, I don't even know what kind of thread you are talking about!hehe I adore your high fashion clothes, thanks for sharing them with us

Tany said...

Very nice job, the skirt looks very sharp and professionally made!!

Alviana said...

Fabulous job! very pretty skirt. love to make one. But i'm not sure high-waist skirt suit my heavy bottom. mmm....

Anonymous said...

They look real comfy and stylish at the same time, I like them. whats your opinion With the expected arrival of high waisted women's trousers, shorts and mini skirts hitting our high street stores this summer, do you think this will be the end of the hipsters?

Anonymous said...

I love it ! Very creative ! That's actually really cool Thanks.

Charms said...

The skirt is so classy, and the type of skirt I love wearing for my office work. It looks very professional and not the daring kind. I have 10 different style, color and cuts of High Waist Skirt and very comfortable wearing them, which all I bought in juicy outlet store here in california.