Monday, January 26, 2009

Argyle Blouse: Burda WOF 2004-02-120



Inspiration:
This McQ by Alexander McQueen Top:
What I like about McQueen’s design is the casual sophistication and effortlessness that the top exudes.

Pattern:
Burda WOF 2004-02-120, s.38. The pattern is actually for a dress/tunic, I took only the top (blouse) part of the pattern and worked with it.
Pattern Alterations for fit:
Shortened the bodice above the armhole with 0.5”.
On raglan sleeves drafted by Burda WOF I usually have to adjust the shoulder curve to soften it. This, however, was not necessary here.

Pattern Modifications:
The sleeve was overhauled. First, I made it a 1-piece sleeve by putting the front and back parts of the sleeve together and, thus, creating a shoulder dart. Second, I tapered the sleeve towards the hem and adjusted the underarm length to what was needed for the design. Third, I added the pleats, the slit, the placket, and the cuff.
Shirt hem: I added a 0.5” waistband (bias-cut) in which I inserted elastic.
Front slit: lengthened to 7”.
Neckline and slit are bias bound.
3 buttons and button loops were added to the bottom edge of the slit.

Fabric:
Italian argyle print cotton shirting from EOS.
This fabric is one of those you have to see in person to truly appreciate. I love the color combination and the argyle/plaid pattern.

Construction details:
Although it was not in the initial plan, the blouse ended up being underlined with Ambience. The underlining was cut on bias. I think it improves the hang, and I like how it feels against the skin.
Again, D. Coffin’s “Shirtmaking” was invaluable.
Here are some close-up photos of the shirt:

Conclusion:
A pattern with a lovely cut, and isn’t it nice that you can find a current-looking pattern in a 5-yr old magazine!

13 comments:

Dei said...

Always truly impressed with your pattern drafting skills. The top is TDF!

i heart design said...

Love it! How do you prefer to finish your seams in a garment like this? Great top!!

Myra said...

Very very cool!

Lisette M said...

I am going through my old Burdas and thought the same thing. Love your new top.

angie.a said...

I don't have this on in stash, but dang that's a cute top! LOVE the underlining.

Cindy said...

Lovely blouse. I love the colors!

Marita said...

Great shirt, beautiful colors, lining was an excellent idea, this really looks like a couture piece and I use that same method for raglan sleeves too, sometimes, and it's handy when you do linings.

Rachel said...

I just love your argyle top. I have a weakness for argyle. You are so talented.

loopylulu said...

Another great top!

Lindsay T said...

RTW perfect as always. I love how you chose to line this.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

No fair! It's only nice if one *has* a copy of the 5 year old magazine. jealous. `-) Cute shirt!

Tany said...

You did a fantastic job! I love how the top turned out (your hair looks great too, btw!)

Melissa said...

Gorgeous!!!!