Monday, January 26, 2009

Argyle Blouse: Burda WOF 2004-02-120

This McQ by Alexander McQueen Top:
What I like about McQueen’s design is the casual sophistication and effortlessness that the top exudes.

Burda WOF 2004-02-120, s.38. The pattern is actually for a dress/tunic, I took only the top (blouse) part of the pattern and worked with it.
Pattern Alterations for fit:
Shortened the bodice above the armhole with 0.5”.
On raglan sleeves drafted by Burda WOF I usually have to adjust the shoulder curve to soften it. This, however, was not necessary here.

Pattern Modifications:
The sleeve was overhauled. First, I made it a 1-piece sleeve by putting the front and back parts of the sleeve together and, thus, creating a shoulder dart. Second, I tapered the sleeve towards the hem and adjusted the underarm length to what was needed for the design. Third, I added the pleats, the slit, the placket, and the cuff.
Shirt hem: I added a 0.5” waistband (bias-cut) in which I inserted elastic.
Front slit: lengthened to 7”.
Neckline and slit are bias bound.
3 buttons and button loops were added to the bottom edge of the slit.

Italian argyle print cotton shirting from EOS.
This fabric is one of those you have to see in person to truly appreciate. I love the color combination and the argyle/plaid pattern.

Construction details:
Although it was not in the initial plan, the blouse ended up being underlined with Ambience. The underlining was cut on bias. I think it improves the hang, and I like how it feels against the skin.
Again, D. Coffin’s “Shirtmaking” was invaluable.
Here are some close-up photos of the shirt:

A pattern with a lovely cut, and isn’t it nice that you can find a current-looking pattern in a 5-yr old magazine!


Dei said...

Always truly impressed with your pattern drafting skills. The top is TDF!

i heart design said...

Love it! How do you prefer to finish your seams in a garment like this? Great top!!

Myra said...

Very very cool!

Lisette M said...

I am going through my old Burdas and thought the same thing. Love your new top.

angie.a said...

I don't have this on in stash, but dang that's a cute top! LOVE the underlining.

Cindy said...

Lovely blouse. I love the colors!

Marita said...

Great shirt, beautiful colors, lining was an excellent idea, this really looks like a couture piece and I use that same method for raglan sleeves too, sometimes, and it's handy when you do linings.

Rachel said...

I just love your argyle top. I have a weakness for argyle. You are so talented.

loopylulu said...

Another great top!

Lindsay T said...

RTW perfect as always. I love how you chose to line this.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

No fair! It's only nice if one *has* a copy of the 5 year old magazine. jealous. `-) Cute shirt!

Tany said...

You did a fantastic job! I love how the top turned out (your hair looks great too, btw!)

Melissa said...