Remember I posted about this embelished tank by Haute Hippie (photo from Nordstrom.com)? 
Well, I drew from it and did something similar. The fabric is gray (cobalt) rayon jersey from gorgeousfabrics.com. The tank is bound with strips from the same fabric. The fabric flowers are sewn on a bib-like piece that I hand pick-stitched. Ribbon is inserted in the ends of the bib piece and is then threaded through the grommets, and tied behind the neck.
Racerback:
And here is how i wore it today - with a hoodie and a rabbit fur vest:
I made another one in salmon color rayon jersey but have not put grommets yet. Will post about it later!
CHIFFON WRAP necklace:
BOLD CHAIN necklace:
It is cold here and is still snowing now and then. DD doesn’t seem to mind, unless it is really windy. I mind! So, in protest, I am working on my SS’09 plan and bravely shiver when trying stuff on. 
I have always had technical issues when binding knits and try to avoid having to bind whenever possible. Additionally, it is even harder for me to bind when the fabric is slippery or almost tissue weight. The fabric I used (butter jersey from http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/) is not slippery; it is, however, very lightweight. So, I came up with finishing the edges using bias strips of lining fabric. It is rather simple, actually. 1st: Cut 1.25” wide bias strips. I used lining fabric, but any lightweight woven would work. 2nd: Steam the strips after the curve they are going to be applied to. 3rd. Baste the strips under the main fabric leaving anywhere from 0.25” to 0.5” to be seen. 4th: Using a narrow coverstitch, permanently stitch the strips to the fabric. 5th: Take off the basting and trim the strips from the wrong side close to the coverstitch. 6th: This is an optional step – using your fingernails, fray the outer edge of the bias strips. I used a trick to stabilize the lightweight jersey during construction: sprayed it with starch and let it dry. Later, I washed away the starch, of course, but the starching was very helpful. Here are some details: 
What else have I been doing: Well, I finalized the muslin for my loose fitting pants (see the photos below). I have been working on this pant for awhile now (went through 3+ muslins). I used Burda WOF 2008-02-121, s. 36 and will review the pattern separately. I am pleased with the way the way the muslin turned out. I’m making them from dark gray silk, so it is definitely a summer pant. I want to find some tropical wool and make them for spring too.
Lastly, following Lindsay T’s (from http://www.lindsaytsews.com)recent post, I spent *too* much time browsing new to me blogs. One of the blogs I arrived at was The Glamorai (http://theglamourai.blogspot.com/). OMG, what an inspiration this blog is. The young lady who writes it had such an eclectic, maximalist style, such a keen eye for textures, prints, and mixing them, I was exasperated. BTW, she also sews (one of the items she features is a vintage coat which she overhauled by changing the lining, among other things) and designs jewelry. The second blog I absolutely fell in love with is Atlantis Home (http://atlantishome.typepad.com/my_weblog/). It is a fashion blog about a mom with 2 daughters, and this is the most stylish mom you've ever seen! She also sews and creates clothing herself. this link: http://atlantishome.typepad.com/my_weblog/diy-projects/ is to her DIY projects. I am so inspired by her!
I worked some on another muslin from my SS'09 plan. I started off by tracing off Burda 7643 View C. This was the closest pattern I could find. I had to do a few insignificant adjustments, but there was a notable one: I made the front neckline higher and the back neckline slightly lower.
Also, on a side note, since we are talking about tanks, have a look at this Haute Hippie Tank. It is for sale at Nordstrom for $495! I would never pay that amount of moner, however, the idea of incorporating jewelry into the front neckline is unique and appeals to me. If I find a necklace that would work, I might try it. You can even buy a RTW tank and start from there! The only thing I don't know how to go about is how to make the big eyelets in the front straps. Does anyone know of a tool/technique they can be done with?
Other helpful materials: pretty much anything that is generally useful for drafting, e.g. hipcurve, metal curve, etc.
Next, I lift the GLAD sheet and place it on tha pattern paper with the sticky side down , and with a tracing wheel go over all the marks:
Then, I completely remove the GLAD sheet and as you can see the marks are indented in the paper:
Last, I go with a marker.pencil over the tracing wheel indentations:
Of course, it is a whole lot more complicated when you have darts in the pattern, gathering, sleeves, etc. Even if there are no such complications, you still should not rely solely on what you've traced. You have to measure to ascertain the side seams on the back and front are the same, that curves are appropriate, that everything is symetrical. Of course, you need to make a muslin as well. Thread has had some good articles on the topic. In future when I copy something with a more difficult element, I'll try to document the process for those interested.
Well, I have a rather serious issue not being able to find the fabrics I want for some of the garments in my summer sewing plan. I’ll wait a bit longer, order more samples, perhaps go to Denver even. Meanwhile, I decided to start working on my patterns and muslins, so at least I am ready when I find the fabrics.I started off with the Tulip Skirt. It is a knock-off of a skirt by Malene Birger that I own and love. For some reason it really compliments my otherwise boyish from the waist-down figure. “By Malene Birger” is a well known label in Europe, while in the USA it is just coming in. A local boutique downtown Colorado Springs stocks a few items per season.
So, I started by rubbing off the pattern using GLAD Press and Seal (my favorite product for copying RTW). Then I transferred it onto paper and did some basic truing, measuring, marking. Next, I made the first muslin:
As you can see, there were a few problems:
- Too narrow at the waist
- Waistband too wide
- Dire need to level the seam connecting the upper and lower skirt at the CB and side seams
Then, there was a 2nd muslin, which I did not take pics of but it needed work as well, specifically at the side seams.
For the 3rd muslin I used the lower skirt from the 2nd muslin and only re-cut the upper skirt pieces. The 3rd muslin was OK, but I wanted a bit more volume at the side seams and let them out some between the lower thigh and the high hip.
Eventually, I arrived at my final muslin. Even on it there is one issue (as you can probably see above) – the hem is uneven, but that is already corrected on the paper pattern.
As you can see, even if you are copying a garment you own, muslins are crucial. Just compare the initial ( after rub-off) pattern for the upper skirt and the final one:
They also help with establishing the right sequence in construction. My first muslin was constructed in a completely different order than my last one and the sequence of the last is must more logical and easier to sew and press. The final construction order at which I arrived is: 1. Insert invisible zipper in CB (upper back skirt
2. Attach lower front to upper front and lower back to upper back
3. Inseam pockets.
4. Side seams (The photo below shows the skirt before it is pleated at the waistband)
5. Pleat the front and the backAbout the fabric choice:
I want to make this skirt using a solid crisp woven for the upper skirt and drapier bold big print woven for the bottom.
Iam even thinking of attacking a petticoat to the lining for more "poof" in case the fabric for the lower part does not have enough beef, or maybe simply underlining the lower part.
Some of the fabrics I am considering (still don't have true favorites) for the lower part of the skirt are:
These bold florals from gorgeousfabrics.com ( I especially like the 1st one):
And these cottons from equilter.com:
