Contests and Some Projects Update

The voting for My Pattern contest started on the 2nd of August and will continue till the 12th of August - 2 more days. This is the page where you (if you've been a member of the PR for at least 3 months) can vote for any of the contest entries:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=68
The ansemble on the left - a sailor twill pant and a ruched sleeve jersey top - is what I am participating with.

The voting for the One Fabric - Knit Contest (also held by PR) is also ending on the 12th of August and here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=72 you can vote for your favorites. My entry in this contest is the yelllow maxi dress to the right:

On the update side, I am working on three things right now.

1. A drapey piece inspired by this Obakki top:

After 3 muslins my version (which is not a complete knock-off, there are some design changes) is essentially done but the weather outside is kind of cold, so I am waiting for a sunnier day to take pictures. I also made a choker to go with it.

2. I am done with the muslin for Burda WOF 09/2007-120 top (to the right). I have to find the right fabric (thinking black) and I am so making it!

3. I am in the process of fitting the muslin for Burda WOF 09/2007-121 jumper-dress (to the left) and I still have not made my mind if I actually like the style on me. If I decide to make it, I am wondering what color to make it (I know I don't want it black, for sure).

This is all for now. I start school in a week and my sewing time will be limited until mid-December, but hopefully will be able to squeeze some projects in.

Double Welt Tutorial - Part 2 (picture heavy)

Continuation:

16. Understitch the lower pocket back 1/16” from the edge of the pocketing, on the pocketing:

17. Stitch down the lower edge of the lower lip to the lining.

FOR LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS:
18. Tape ends of lips

See above

19. Gather the pants pc.

Fold pocket bag right sides together.
Measure 5/8” from the triangle seam, (short end of pocket) mark.

Stitch on that line 3/8” from edge.

Turn bag out. Press bag. Stitch edges 0.25” from the edge.


FOR HEAVIER-WEIGHT FABRICS:
18. Trim ends of lips and tape them.


19. Gather the pants pc.
Fold pocket bag WS together.
Measure 5/8” from the triangle seam, mark.
Serge on that line.

20. Optional: Make a button loop. Baste under upper lip.
Understitch upper lip 1/16” from edge

21. Remove the basting that holds the lips together only after the pant is completely finished.

The END!

Double Welt Tutorial - Part 1 (Picture heavy)

I want to share my favourite technique for making double welt pockets. It is a combination of several techniques that I have come across in the course of my sewing, as well as of my personal experience. I will publish the tutorial in two parts.

First, interface behind pocket. If your fabric is twill or denim – no need tointerface.

Mark fabric for pocket placement:

On me I like pockets that are 4.5”wide. The following pieces are cut as per these measurements.

1. Cut ( for 1 pocket):
From fashion fabric:
1 pc 4 x 7.5” (the 7.5” side on the grain)
1 pc 3 x 7.5” the 3” side on the grain)
Serge the long edges of the pcs.
From pocketing/lining: 1pc 7.5 x 18”
From fus. interfacing: 1pc 2 x 7.5 - to interface 4” pc

Serge long edges of pieces. You should have these:

2. Place lining behind fabric - both pieces RS (right side) up

Baste the lining to the fabric at the future pocket slit

3. Mark the 4” piece: Mark the middle and 2 lines from the middle on each side, 0.25” apart – total of 5 lines.

Can be marked with a fabric marker or baste-marked.
Fold on the 2 outer lines and press them.
If using a fabric marker, make sure to mark the WS of the 4” pc.

4. Position the 4” pc on top of the fashion fabric, RS together.

Baste on the center line.
Mark the short ends of the pocket opening.

5. Stitch on line 2 and 3, making a rectangle.

Verify that the stitch lines are equally apart from each other on both ends.
Reinforce the ends.
Remove basting.

6. On the WS of the lining mark line A as shown: (d= depth of pocket bag)

Measure D from slit = fold line
From fold line measure: D+ ¾” = Line A

7. Align the 3” pc with line A and stitch on line A and the other long line opposed toit.

8. Baste/Mark the fold of pocketing.

9. Slashing.
Mark 3/8” from the short ends of the rectangle.

Slash on line 1 to the 3/8” mark.
Cut from the 3/8” point diagonally to the ends of the seams, in 3-4 steps; to but not thru.

10. Press open SAs of lips

11. Turn 4” pc to the WS of the pants.

12. Press windowpane opening flat.

13. Baste lips on lines 4 &5 together.

Remove basting that marks line 4&5.

14. Press lips open at basting.

15. Turn the triangles to the wrong side and sew them to the lips.

To be continued......

St. Tropez Tee

I had some remnants from the silk jersey I used for my maxi dress and wanted to make a top that would showcase how drapey the fabric is.
My yardage was limited though, so it had to be something streamlined. I was also inspired by the summer collection of the ultra-modern line MM6 designed by Maison Martin Margiela. Checksome of his summer stuff here: http://www.eluxury.com/estore/sales/public.jsp?catId=home&brand=900001, only I wanted something more resort-y, hence the name I chose for it - St. Tropez. Therefore, I went with a dolman short-sleeve tee/tunic, which was too fit loose but not as address, i.e. hug the hips. Did not find an exact pattern but Burda WOF has plenty dolman sleeve tops, so I got a good idea of what the pattern should look like.

Here is a sketch of the pattern and reference as to my measurements - same front and back, only the neckline on the front is deeper (pls, excuse my rookie sketch, I am not good at the illustration program.

I stabilized the shoulder seams with Fusi Knit bias strips

The hem is a single-fold one and coverstitched.

The sleeves are rolled up and tacked down.

Neckline: Let’s just start by saying that I dislike making necklines on knits, period. I know it is not a rocket science but to me it seems like a very fiddly affair (especially if RTW finish is desired)! So, I am not 100% happy with the neckline but it is as good as I’ll ever get it to be… Neckline woes aside, I think it is a fairly wearable top that can be dressed up with custom jewelry and a cool bag, as well as dressed down with yoga pants and a sports bra.

Denim Shorts with Sailor Front

I needed a pair of shorts and came across these cute sailor shorts from Second Skin Clothes by Generra. You can see them here: http://www.bluefly.com/pages/products/detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=2065875531&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2002296781&N=933&Ne=500000&Nu=Product+ID&Ntk=all&Ntt=sailor+shorts&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial

Here are my shorts: (could have done a better job pressing at the end..., sorry!)

From the description Bluefly provides, the shorts have 4-button interior closure at front with 2-button side closures, pleats at waist with notch at back waistband and 2-button detail, curved side pockets on front with double-welt button pockets at back, cuffed hem and 4'' inseam. I tried to stay true to this description, however, my interior closure is 3-button.

Muslin:

I

used the pants block I have and adjusted it by:
a/ adding a front pleat
b/ adding width at the high hip of the back
c/ shortening to 4” inseam
d/ adding cuffs
e/ cutting out pieces for the sailor front
What I should have done but did not: Having never sewn shorts before, I did not think about adding ¾ of an inch or so to the front crotch and about that much to the back crotch length for more ease. Now I know!

Fabric: Lightweight denim. For pocketing I used a business cotton shirt that my husband would not wear anymore.
Construction-wise: The denim I used is 100% cotton, hence, prone to stretching with wear. Therefore, I taped the waistline, the outerseamof the back pieces behind the pocket, and the crotch curve with cotton tape.
Here are some shots of the inner life (as Marita calls it) of the shorts: