Thursday, July 31, 2008

Double Welt Tutorial - Part 1 (Picture heavy)

I want to share my favourite technique for making double welt pockets. It is a combination of several techniques that I have come across in the course of my sewing, as well as of my personal experience. I will publish the tutorial in two parts.

First, interface behind pocket. If your fabric is twill or denim – no need tointerface.

Mark fabric for pocket placement:

On me I like pockets that are 4.5”wide. The following pieces are cut as per these measurements.

1. Cut ( for 1 pocket):
From fashion fabric:
1 pc 4 x 7.5” (the 7.5” side on the grain)
1 pc 3 x 7.5” the 3” side on the grain)
Serge the long edges of the pcs.
From pocketing/lining: 1pc 7.5 x 18”
From fus. interfacing: 1pc 2 x 7.5 - to interface 4” pc

Serge long edges of pieces. You should have these:

2. Place lining behind fabric - both pieces RS (right side) up

Baste the lining to the fabric at the future pocket slit

3. Mark the 4” piece: Mark the middle and 2 lines from the middle on each side, 0.25” apart – total of 5 lines.

Can be marked with a fabric marker or baste-marked.
Fold on the 2 outer lines and press them.
If using a fabric marker, make sure to mark the WS of the 4” pc.

4. Position the 4” pc on top of the fashion fabric, RS together.

Baste on the center line.
Mark the short ends of the pocket opening.

5. Stitch on line 2 and 3, making a rectangle.

Verify that the stitch lines are equally apart from each other on both ends.
Reinforce the ends.
Remove basting.

6. On the WS of the lining mark line A as shown: (d= depth of pocket bag)

Measure D from slit = fold line
From fold line measure: D+ ¾” = Line A

7. Align the 3” pc with line A and stitch on line A and the other long line opposed toit.

8. Baste/Mark the fold of pocketing.

9. Slashing.
Mark 3/8” from the short ends of the rectangle.

Slash on line 1 to the 3/8” mark.
Cut from the 3/8” point diagonally to the ends of the seams, in 3-4 steps; to but not thru.

10. Press open SAs of lips

11. Turn 4” pc to the WS of the pants.

12. Press windowpane opening flat.

13. Baste lips on lines 4 &5 together.

Remove basting that marks line 4&5.

14. Press lips open at basting.

15. Turn the triangles to the wrong side and sew them to the lips.

To be continued......

No comments: