The Sailor Pant - DONE!

This is my entry (or at least a part of it since there will be a coordinating top) in the My Pattern Contest held by PR (http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=68)



Materials:
Fabric:

• twill (EOS) and broadcloth (Joann) for pocketing
• Interfacing – Fusi-knit and Fine Weft Bias tape and buttons (Joann)
• Thread – all purpose thread + embroidery thread for topstitching and buttonholes

Some details:

• Topstitching was done with doubled embroidery thread
• Buttonholes – with embroidery thread, corded
• Lower edge of waistband – bound with bias tape Back double-welt pockets - I used my own technique that is a compilation of different techniques I have tried. I’ll be posting a tutorial some time soon.

These are some detailed photos of the finished product:

Conclusion: It was a lot of work to draft, fix muslins, and then make… But I am so happy how this pant turned out!

Draping / Drafting CHLOÉ Tee

The wearable muslin is finished! And it is wearable indeed!
For my wearable muslin I used 3 Mossimo for Target tissue-weight t-shirts (size XXL), on sale.

Making the unwearable muslin:
At this point I made an “overall shape” mock-up by cutting and pinning (time after time) one of DH’s oversized white t-shirts. Eventually I arrived at the muslin pieces as shown in the slideshow. Next, I added a wedge to the upper front for the cowl-neck effect. Lastly, I freehanded the stitch lines to mimic as close as possible the original design. Then I transferred the muslin to paper and trued the topstitching lines so the back and front matched.
From there, I cut out the separate pattern pieces.

This slideshow illustrates the process:

Construction:
Seams are first serged, then pressed tone side, then topstitched with a coverstitch machine (the parallel lines remain on the wrong side).
The lines that are only topstitched I first interfaced with 3/8” bias fine-knit fusible.
The neckline is faced and understitched.
Hem is folded under and topstitched.

These are photos of the WS and RS of the stitching

To do for the contest entry: I do have some tweaking to do, reposition some lines and rethink construction, but really, the style is so loose that I do not foresee any major changes. With other words, the fit was the easier part with this top. Now, I am impatiently waiting for my samples and then fabric to arrive!

CHLOÉ Exposed Seams T-Shirt

Style description (courtesy of Net-a-porter.com http://www.net-a-porter.com/am/product/31968): White cotton T-shirt with exposed contrast stitch detailing. Chloé T-shirt has short batwing sleeves and sits off the shoulder with a slightly cowl neckline. The mixture of the relaxed shape of the T-shirt with the graphic modernity of the exposed seams makes for a cool off-duty look.

This TS has been the t-shirt of my dreams for a few months now. The price tag ($495, reduced to $247.50), however, has been the why this top remained a dream, as opposed to reality.

Therefore, I decided to draft the shirt myself and enter it as a coordinating piece to the sailor pants in the My Pattern Contest.

Hotpatterns.com http://www.hotpatternsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HP&Product_Code=riv_HP1015&Category_Code=riv has a pattern for a t-shirt that has similar exposed seams as the Chloe one, however, the Hot Patterns tee is semi-fitted and has a slash neckline, while the Chloé one is slouchy by design and has a cowlneck.

Drafting the Pattern:

I've started by studying the photos closely and doing some very basic calculations: The website states that the length of the t-shirt is 27”. I compared the proportions of the photo (hem and bust circumference to length) and concluded twhat hat the bust and hem circ. should roughly be. Also, by doing some Photoshop experiments on the photos of the original shirt I think I “guessed” which pieces were cut as separate and which seams were just topstitched.

Now I'm making an “overall shape” mock-up by cutting and pinning (time after time, after time...) one of DH’s oversized white t-shirts. Will be posting pics of the muslin once I have something presentable :)

2nd Muslin - Getting Closer to Siling Off!

I finally made the 2nd muslin for the sailor pants… Yeah, it took a while, didn’t it! It’s made from cotton twill (in order to get a more exact idea of how the pant would drape). The front crotch problem seems to be resolved and I like the placement of the pockets/buttons/buttonholes. Here are some photos of the front and the back:

After the 2nd muslin I had a 9-point list of pattern adjustments that I needed to apply to my pattern - some minor fitting issues and some other issues related to the construction of the sailor front.
Here are my materials for the pant:

Now back to making the actual pant!

Off-The-Shoulder Asymmetry

Typically, when it comes to clothes, I am not in favor in asymmetry. However, as with every rule, this one also has its few exceptions, among which is my flair for off-the-shoulder garments. According to fashion mags, the off-the-shoulder style is very much “in”, however, it is hard to find decent RTW channeling this trend. As you can see, I went conservative with this top and did not do a very pronounced off-the-shoulder neckline, but next time I might be more adventurous:

This top is fashioned after a top I once saw in the ArdenB flagship store in Chicago. It was a long sleeve jersey top that could be worn as an off-the-shoulder garment, as well as a regular top. I remember that the price put me off but I did go to the fitting room, tried the top on, loved it, and quickly sketched it on a piece of paper. I filed the piece of paper together with all my other sewing papers but never got around to making it, until now.
Here is the sketch of the top.

The measurements you see on the sketch are taken in a very *scientific* way - “finger” increments, which is how I measure things in stores when I don’t have a measuring tape :), and since I know that 4 fingers = 2.5 inches, it is as accurate as it gets!

The actual shirt is made from a knit fabric I bought 3 yrs ago from some online store, but I don’t remember from where exactly. The top is sewn VERY fast on account of a simple construction - identical front and back pieces and two rectangular pieces for the lower parts of the sleeve. I first sew the shoulder seams, then coverstitched the neckline. Next, I attached the rectangualer lower sleeve pieces to the body and then serged the underarn seams. Lastly, the bottom hem was coverstitched. It honestly cannot be any simpler than that! Here is the top lying flat:

I really like this top, although I realize that a style like that would not be everyone’s cup of tea.
although it is a very distinctive style, I can imagine making again with a stronger off-the-shoulder detail, out of some luxurious (perhaps mustardy yellow) silk jersey… Now, that would be a great summer, not-over-the-top, meet-with-friends-for-a drink, evening top. For me anyway… And think of it, I do have a mustardy yellow silk jersey in my stash!

No Sewing But a Meme!

I have been tagged by Christina from http://www.assortednotion.blogspot.com/ for a “get to know you ” meme.

So, these are my answers:

What was I doing 10 years ago:
Well, in June 1998 I was in grad school and preparing for some rather excrutiating finals. FUI, in Bulgaria, where I lived and studied, June is a VERY hot month and I had no AC in my apartment…

5 things on my to-do list today:
Cook dinner for my family, parents, and MIL
Go with my daughter to the America The Beautiful Park
Fill gas
Do my mani/pedi
Call Aldo Shoes

Snacks I enjoy:

Hmmnm, cookies, cashew, aussie cakes, feta cheese, milk, Cheetos and way embarrasingly way too many more

Things I would do if I were a billionaire:

Invest the money wisely
Build a house for my parents and my sister’s family somewhere close to our house so they can move over here
Make sure my parents could retire whenever they decide they want to do so

Buy a second home in Maui or Kauai
Travel a lot

Get Isolaz laser treatment

If I have more kids, hire a Bulgarian-speaking au-pair while they are little
And so much more…

Places I have lived:

Varna, Bulgaria – born there

Dobrich, Bulgaria –childhood through high school
Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria – 1st year of college
Sofia, Bulgaria – college and grad. school
Chicago, Illinois – for 3 yearsColorado Springs, Colorado – since August’ 2006

Jobs I have hadChronologically:
Salesperson at small apparel shop

Salesperson at an ice-cream shop
English teacher (English as a second language) for kindergarteners
Waffle maker at a summer resort
Office assistant for a company who dealt in essential oils
Legal advisor for a pharmaceutical company

6 peeps I wanna know more about:
The Sewing Diva Els from http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/
Marita from Finland
The lady behind http://couturefrenzy.blogspot.com/
Tany from http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com/
Laura from http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/
Liana from http://sewintriguing.blogspot.com/

BTW, pls don’t feel obliged to answer, I have simply been intrigued with your sewing and would like to know more about who you are in your non-sewing life :)

Sailor Pants Drafting and Fitting - Part I

My parents arrived from overseas for a visit and since I have not seen them in a year, I am spending most of my free time with them (read: very little sewing). They will stay here a month but when you see your family so rarely, every day is precious. A funny thing, my DH took this picture of us at the airport and sent it from his phone to my email. He mistyped, though, and the title of his email read "Airport pigs" as opposed to "Airport pics!" I thought it was hilarious!

Anyway, I managed to draft a pant sloper, made a muslin and fitted it (somewhat).

This is a photo of the draft (front and back drafted on the same piece of paper) and of my drafting tools. As you can see, I am very low-tech!

I learned how to draft a trouser in 2005 in Chicago. The place I went to has a website (http://www.ewsacademy.org/) if you want to check it out. The website used to sell drafting tutorials but I am not sure if they still do. The guy who owns the school has a place in the South side of Chicago where he teaches groups of 6-7 people. He teaches everything as far as drafting and tailoring is concerned but I got pregnant and managed to finish only the trouser and the skirt drafts. I have drafted a few pairs of pants since (for both men and women), using the method I learned there, and it has been successful. I would love to learn how to draft a more fitted (jean-type fit) pants, though.

This is a picture of the front where there is a crotch problem that I have to figure out. The back I was quite happy with, did not take a picture of it though. I tried leting out the crotch seam next to where the folds appear and it helped but did not solve the issue. I am not sure quite how to proceed because it feels like i have enough width in the front (for a fitted pant, anyway). I have noticed though that this problem gets almost self-resolved by making the pant in something more substantial (weight-wise) than muslin. What do you think?

As far as the "sailor front, " so far these are my working pattern pieces, which were drafted after slashing the front where I would like the sailor detail to appear. The slash also takes care of shortening the front rise to where I would like it be (in th muslin it is too high for me, at least in the front).

The purpose of the first muslin I made was to get the fit right in the hips and thighs. I obviusly still have to work on the front crotch. I find that For me, K. King’s “The Trouser Draft” is a good reference for fitting trousers: http://www.kennethdking.com/httpwww.kennethdking.combook3.html#trouser

K. King is an extremely detailed, non-scholarly, visual, step-by-step writer, which appeals to me. He also explains the logic behind what he does which is also something I like. The book teaches you how to draft a trouser and that part I have not tested yet, however, I find the chapter on fitting the trouser extremely helpful. I used the fish-eye alteration to eliminate fabric from the back of my thigh under the buttocks. This method essentially asks you to pin out the excess fabric and then transfer this excess between the inseam and outseam.

I will be making a second muslin to incorporate the sailor front detail. This second time around, I will use some cheap mid-weight denim, instead of muslin, to get a better idea of the drape of the pant.

Meanwhile, since trouser fitting and sewing is a quite involved process and I want to spend time with my parents while they are here, I might make an easy top to feed my sewing habit :)