Friday, February 20, 2009

Inspired by a Butterfly Jewelry

I am not experienced in the field of jewelry making, but was, however, very inspired by a vintage piece I found (the butterfly you'll see below) and that is how it started.

2 out of the 4 pieces are scarf necklaces, which is a shape I am obssessed with now. It can be wrapped around (or not) couple of times and goes perfectly with bare shoulders or with plain white button-down or simple tee.
BUTTERLY necklace:


AUTUMN necklace:

CHIFFON WRAP necklace:

BOLD CHAIN necklace:

Monday, February 16, 2009

Racerback Tank, Inspirations, and Other Works in Progress



It is cold here and is still snowing now and then. DD doesn’t seem to mind, unless it is really windy. I mind! So, in protest, I am working on my SS’09 plan and bravely shiver when trying stuff on.

The pattern for the top I worked on this Sunday is modeled after the “T Alexander Wang” and Haute Hippie lines, i.e. loose and fluid (photos courtesy of Nordstrom and Shopbop).

I have always had technical issues when binding knits and try to avoid having to bind whenever possible. Additionally, it is even harder for me to bind when the fabric is slippery or almost tissue weight. The fabric I used (butter jersey from http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/) is not slippery; it is, however, very lightweight. So, I came up with finishing the edges using bias strips of lining fabric. It is rather simple, actually. 1st: Cut 1.25” wide bias strips. I used lining fabric, but any lightweight woven would work. 2nd: Steam the strips after the curve they are going to be applied to. 3rd. Baste the strips under the main fabric leaving anywhere from 0.25” to 0.5” to be seen. 4th: Using a narrow coverstitch, permanently stitch the strips to the fabric. 5th: Take off the basting and trim the strips from the wrong side close to the coverstitch. 6th: This is an optional step – using your fingernails, fray the outer edge of the bias strips. I used a trick to stabilize the lightweight jersey during construction: sprayed it with starch and let it dry. Later, I washed away the starch, of course, but the starching was very helpful. Here are some details:
What else have I been doing: Well, I finalized the muslin for my loose fitting pants (see the photos below). I have been working on this pant for awhile now (went through 3+ muslins). I used Burda WOF 2008-02-121, s. 36 and will review the pattern separately. I am pleased with the way the way the muslin turned out. I’m making them from dark gray silk, so it is definitely a summer pant. I want to find some tropical wool and make them for spring too.

Lastly, following Lindsay T’s (from http://www.lindsaytsews.com)recent post, I spent *too* much time browsing new to me blogs. One of the blogs I arrived at was The Glamorai (http://theglamourai.blogspot.com/). OMG, what an inspiration this blog is. The young lady who writes it had such an eclectic, maximalist style, such a keen eye for textures, prints, and mixing them, I was exasperated. BTW, she also sews (one of the items she features is a vintage coat which she overhauled by changing the lining, among other things) and designs jewelry. The second blog I absolutely fell in love with is Atlantis Home (http://atlantishome.typepad.com/my_weblog/). It is a fashion blog about a mom with 2 daughters, and this is the most stylish mom you've ever seen! She also sews and creates clothing herself. this link: http://atlantishome.typepad.com/my_weblog/diy-projects/ is to her DIY projects. I am so inspired by her!

Friday, February 13, 2009

Tiered Camisole - SS'09 plan: The Muslin

I worked some on another muslin from my SS'09 plan. I started off by tracing off Burda 7643 View C. This was the closest pattern I could find. I had to do a few insignificant adjustments, but there was a notable one: I made the front neckline higher and the back neckline slightly lower.
Next, I decided on the length of the first and second layer of ruffles and drafted them by cutting the front and back pattern to that length.

Due to the layers of fabric, this project required a very lightweight material. I have the options of cotton voile, silk, georgette, etc. I'm still looking for fabric but feel pretty confident I'll find something!

Also, on a side note, since we are talking about tanks, have a look at this Haute Hippie Tank. It is for sale at Nordstrom for $495! I would never pay that amount of moner, however, the idea of incorporating jewelry into the front neckline is unique and appeals to me. If I find a necklace that would work, I might try it. You can even buy a RTW tank and start from there! The only thing I don't know how to go about is how to make the big eyelets in the front straps. Does anyone know of a tool/technique they can be done with?

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Copying RTW

After my last post there were requests to show how I copy RTW when I have the item.

First, these are the materials I use: GLAD Press n' Seal, scissors, tracing wheel, ruler, curve, pattern weights, pencil, sharp tip marker or any other marker.
Other helpful materials: pretty much anything that is generally useful for drafting, e.g. hipcurve, metal curve, etc.
I start by laying the item flat and placing GLAD on top with the stickier side towards the garment. Then, I use a marker to mark the seamlines, garment outlines, etc.:

Next, I lift the GLAD sheet and place it on tha pattern paper with the sticky side down , and with a tracing wheel go over all the marks:

Then, I completely remove the GLAD sheet and as you can see the marks are indented in the paper:
Last, I go with a marker.pencil over the tracing wheel indentations:

Of course, it is a whole lot more complicated when you have darts in the pattern, gathering, sleeves, etc. Even if there are no such complications, you still should not rely solely on what you've traced. You have to measure to ascertain the side seams on the back and front are the same, that curves are appropriate, that everything is symetrical. Of course, you need to make a muslin as well. Thread has had some good articles on the topic. In future when I copy something with a more difficult element, I'll try to document the process for those interested.
BTW, the tracing you see above is a tracing a did for one of the items from my SS'09 sewing plan: the Loose Woven Tank. Initially, I was planning on using This Burda 7661 View B. When I thought about it, though, it became clear that the only instance I needed a pattern for was for the armhole. Therefore, I decided to skip buying a pattern and instead traced off the armhole of a tank I have. I had to lower it and tweak it but that could have very well been the case with the Burda pattern anyway. It took me two muslins but I ended up with something I was truly happy with. This is a collage of the pictures of the muslin I took. Excuse the poor quality but it was close to midnight and the lighting in my sewing room was not optimal.


Sunday, February 8, 2009

3 Muslins Later... A Tulip Skirt Muslin was born!


Well, I have a rather serious issue not being able to find the fabrics I want for some of the garments in my summer sewing plan. I’ll wait a bit longer, order more samples, perhaps go to Denver even. Meanwhile, I decided to start working on my patterns and muslins, so at least I am ready when I find the fabrics.

I started off with the Tulip Skirt. It is a knock-off of a skirt by Malene Birger that I own and love. For some reason it really compliments my otherwise boyish from the waist-down figure. “By Malene Birger” is a well known label in Europe, while in the USA it is just coming in. A local boutique downtown Colorado Springs stocks a few items per season.

So, I started by rubbing off the pattern using GLAD Press and Seal (my favorite product for copying RTW). Then I transferred it onto paper and did some basic truing, measuring, marking. Next, I made the first muslin:

As you can see, there were a few problems:
- Too narrow at the waist
- Waistband too wide
- Dire need to level the seam connecting the upper and lower skirt at the CB and side seams
Then, there was a 2nd muslin, which I did not take pics of but it needed work as well, specifically at the side seams.
For the 3rd muslin I used the lower skirt from the 2nd muslin and only re-cut the upper skirt pieces. The 3rd muslin was OK, but I wanted a bit more volume at the side seams and let them out some between the lower thigh and the high hip.

Eventually, I arrived at my final muslin. Even on it there is one issue (as you can probably see above) – the hem is uneven, but that is already corrected on the paper pattern.

As you can see, even if you are copying a garment you own, muslins are crucial. Just compare the initial ( after rub-off) pattern for the upper skirt and the final one:

They also help with establishing the right sequence in construction. My first muslin was constructed in a completely different order than my last one and the sequence of the last is must more logical and easier to sew and press. The final construction order at which I arrived is:

1. Insert invisible zipper in CB (upper back skirt
2. Attach lower front to upper front and lower back to upper back
3. Inseam pockets.
4. Side seams (The photo below shows the skirt before it is pleated at the waistband)

5. Pleat the front and the back
6. Construct lining and hem lining
7. Baste lining to skirt at waist
8. Attack waistband
9. Hem: to be done with self-fabric facing, understitched and anchored to main fabric by hand.

About the fabric choice:

I want to make this skirt using a solid crisp woven for the upper skirt and drapier bold big print woven for the bottom.

Iam even thinking of attacking a petticoat to the lining for more "poof" in case the fabric for the lower part does not have enough beef, or maybe simply underlining the lower part.

Some of the fabrics I am considering (still don't have true favorites) for the lower part of the skirt are:

These bold florals from gorgeousfabrics.com ( I especially like the 1st one):


And these cottons from equilter.com:

What do you think? I could use some opinions and advice on the fabric! Also, if you have seen some cool cotton print anywhere on the web, pls let me know!

Saturday, February 7, 2009

The MUST-SEW Spring/Summer Sewing List

It is time to plan for spring-summer, and here is my list:
1. Drapey Cropped Full Pant
At first I cringed at the sight if harem pants or even at the fuller pants with front pleats. Then, I saw a photo of DVF’s Allen pant (see below)... And I was sold! I had to have a pant like that.
I have already drafted and muslined a front pleated pant, and am looking for the right fabric now.
Also, Burda 7653 (below) is something that appeals strongly to me.

2. Knit Maxi Dress
I am still looking for the perfect design; however, Elizabeth and James’s dress is my favorite at this point:
with these Caroline Hedaya dress running a close second:
I don't have patterns for either of the dresses; however, both seem pretty straight-forward to draft once you decide on the desired fulness.
3. Jumpsuit
Still have no favorite design but these are the RTW pieces I am looking at for details right now:
The 2nd and 3rd pieces (by, respectively, Paul and Joe and LARok) are most likely what I'll choose.
A Jumpsuit will be interesting to draft. I've never attempted a one-piece, so it should be either very interesting, or extremely frustrating, or both!
4. Proenza Schouler’s Top
Isn't this beautiful... So simple, yet so sopjisticated!
I'll cut this on bias and add structure by inserting boning in the upper side seam
5. A skirt:
I don’t have any summer skirts and this skirt by “by Malene Birger” is my design of choice:
I actually own this skirt and will be coping the pattern.
6. A casual tank(s)
I love tanks and am looking forward to making some slouchier versions - both knit and woven ones. I know many will frown on my inspiration, but here it is nonetheless - a slouchy silk tank by Alexander Wang:


This Burda 7661 View B could work:

How cool will it be if a looser silk tank is layered over a more fitted rayon tank and the rayon peaks from underneath?! I love the idea; I guess we;ll see how it would translate into reality.

7. Flirty Woven Camisole(s)
I like both the Rag & Bone button-up tank on the left and the Ella Moss Tiered camisole on the right. Don't know if I'll make both, but one for sure.

This Burda 7643 View C

Burda WOF 2005-05-111
Of course, I will be also making things for DD but this is something I don’t plan for, it is the spur of the moment kind of sewing.

Friday, February 6, 2009

"All sort of Things" kind-of post!

Thanks to the ever generous Marita from http://exploringpassions.blogspot.com/ I hag this in my mail yesterday:

I am planning on working on these three projects:

Marita is having another giveaway of Patrones mags, so go check her blog!

On a completely different note, I thought I should show you my 3y.o.'s daughter recent creations:

and



As far as sewing, I am working on two muslins: for a skirt and a top, looking for fabric for them and for a pair of pants the muslin for which is finished. I am also trying to decide on my SS'09 sewing plan. School started for me 2 weeks ago and time for sewing will be very limited but I'll try and squeeze some projects in.

Lastly, my dear step-father-in-law who passed away a year and a half ago and left many Hermes, Fendi, Gucci, Ferragamo, Etro, etc. ties. He had hundreds of ties, my MIL gave away many, and has now asked me to list on Ebay the last 50. I tried but because of their counetrfeit policy I can only list 3 every 30 days (or something equally ridiculous). I am looking for ideas how I can sell them. There is no local menswear consignment store, I already checked into it. I can set up an online store but I don't know what traffic I will bring. Anyway, pls share your ideas with me. If you want to peak at the ties, click on this link: http://picasaweb.google.com/lenush2003/Ties#