Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Answering questions from the comments section

I was asked about the technique used to make the shoulder strap knot arounf the bust piece on my maxi dress. Below is the photo tutorial. The black ribbon represents the bust piece, and the pink ribbon is the shoulder strap:


I was also asked why I have used French seams on the silk DVF knock-off pant. I use French seams on sheers and silks. Why: 1. French semas give a professional finish. 2. Finishing seams on sheers in any other way would be, to me at least, visually unpleasing.


Friday, April 2, 2010

Maxi Dress With One-Shoulder Strap


I did something I very rarely do: made two of the same pattern - in peach and in black.

The dresses I made have more gathers in the bust area than the original one, and I prefer it this way.

Material: black rayon jersey, 10 oz weight (my estimation); very lightweight

Although this is not intended to be a tutorial, here are the basic schematics and construction details for the dress:

  • Bodice: Both back and front are made from two pieces: the outside piece is cut with the to-be-gathered edge alonfg the crosswise grain, while the inside piece with the to-be-gathered edge along the lengthwise grain. The two pieces attach at the line where the schematic points at attaching elastic. The elastic is sewn in the seam. At the end of the post there are some sequential photos of the process.
  • Skirt:
Other notes on construction:
  • The seam that attches the skirt to the bodice is reinforced with 1/8" elastic (sewn into the seam;
  • Breast pads (from a swimming suit) inserted in the bodice (between the two layers). The pads from the craft store were too rigid and left a rather visible outline;
  • The shoulder band is attached only to the seam that joins bodice with skirt.

Monday, March 29, 2010

My DVF Allen Pants



I posted about the DVF Allen pants one year ago, after seeing it in a magazine. It was for sale later on net-a-porter.com. Somehow I never got around to making it last year.
This pant is NOT to meant to be worn when pregnant, but it could be (provided you find the right top). As a matter of fact, it looked much better on me 3 weeks ago when I finished it and my "waist" was almost 2" smaller.

The original pant is made from a silk-blend (92% silk, 8% spandex). It has elasticated bands at hem, front pleats, side-slit pockets, and simply slip on. The elasticated casings at the waistband and at the hem are attached, not turned under. Also, the entire pant is constructed with French seams.

I decided to stick to the original as closely as I could, including the construction methods:

- French seams throughout:

- Attached WB and front pleating:

- Front pocket:

- Elasticated cuffs, turned up:

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Black Silk Crepe Needed

I am working on a project (pants) that requires black silk crepe or other silk or silk blend fabric with similar hand (must be very drapey but not sheer).
100% cupro will also work.
If anyone knows of a place that has this type of fabric, pls let me know!
Thanks,
Adriana

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Copying Ivan Grundahl

Ivan Grundahl is a Danish designer with a rather conceptual point of view. You can check his recent work here: http://www.ivangrundahl.dk/index.php.

A local store had a few pieses by him last season. Although his stuff is expensive, most of the items in that store sold before getting down to my comfort price point; but I did manage to get the top for a tenth of the price.

This is the type of design you can never copy without having the original on hand. Recently I copied the pattern, made few (not significant) changes (lengthened it, neckline is a bit different), and replicated it in lightweigh wool jersey that ( I think) I bought from EOS awhile ago. The last picture shows the shape of the top.



BTW, I ordered the shoes from yoox.com for my birthday next month ( as present from DH), and although they are obviously very high, I really like the intricasy, the detail, everything. They just arrived and I still have not decided whether to keep them (because of the height), but wanted to have a picture with them!


Friday, March 19, 2010

Gray Sweats - How I Wore Them

When I made the sweatpants and shirt (http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/2010/02/isabel-marant-inspired-monochromatic.html), I promised I'll post photos of how I wore them. Here are the looks (it is all very casual):




Tuesday, March 16, 2010

What I Wore - March Layers

Today started cold and ended balmy. I had to leave the house at 8am, so this is what I wore:

The leggings are cotton/lycra stirrups that I made couple of nights ago. The first of my layers is the white top with ruched sleeves (photo below) that I made in 3 colors last year: